Srinagar — As autumn settles over Kashmir, the sound of wooden mallets striking lamb rings out through courtyards and alleyways. This rhythmic preparation marks the making of Wazwan, a lavish multi-course mutton feast that remains the centerpiece of Kashmiri wedding celebrations.
Introduced to the valley in the 14th century by Central Asian rulers who also brought carpet and shawl weavers, the culinary tradition has evolved into a potent symbol of regional identity and social standing. The feast is traditionally served on a trami, a communal copper platter, reinforcing its role as a gathering point for families and communities.
Among the tradition’s most prominent custodians is 74-year-old Ghulam Nabi Baba, a veteran chef whose ancestry traces back to the Wazpora community—cooks who settled in Srinagar’s old city during those early migrations.
“There were only seven mutton dishes at that time. Over the centuries we added more, and now there are around 20,” Baba said, noting that the scale of the meal often mirrors a family’s economic status.
Recalling a wedding four decades ago in the northern village of Delina, Baba estimated he cooked approximately 4,500kg (9,920 pounds) of meat for the event—a magnitude he described as exceptional. In contrast, an average wedding today typically involves around 200kg (440 pounds).
Despite the expanding repertoire, the fundamental techniques remain unchanged. Meat is still hand-pounded and slow-simmered over wood fires in degchis, heavy-bottomed copper pots. Signature dishes such as rista (meatballs in red gravy), gushtaba (yogurt-based meatballs), rogan josh, tabak maaz (fried ribs), and kabab rely on this labor-intensive process to achieve their distinct texture and smoky flavor.
However, the grueling, round-the-clock demands of wedding catering are driving a generational shift. Baba’s son has opted to open a restaurant rather than continue the wedding circuit, choosing to preserve the family’s culinary legacy in a contemporary setting.
This transition reflects a broader trend in Srinagar, where younger chefs are increasingly moving from private wedding services to public dining establishments. While the venue changes, the commitment to authentic preparation persists, allowing the 600-year-old tradition to adapt to modern lifestyles without sacrificing its cultural roots.
It’s fascinating how this tradition adapts. Preserving the techniques while changing the venue seems like a smart compromise.
My cousin opened a Wazwan restaurant last year. The food is good, but something feels missing compared to home catering.
That drop from 4,500kg to 200kg of meat is shocking. Times have definitely changed in the valley.
Why is everyone abandoning the traditional wedding circuit? The community experience of eating from a trami is irreplaceable.
I tried Wazwan once in Srinagar and it changed my life. The gushtaba is absolutely divine.