India’s first dark sky reserve empowers local women as stargazing guides

In the remote Himalayan village of Hanle, located at an altitude of 14,764 feet, bitter winds sweep through the cold desert night, yet visitors remain outdoors long after dinner. Here, known for its exceptionally clear skies, locals and tourists gather to witness the Milky Way through telescopes, guided by a quartet of young women known as astro-ambassadors.

Palzes Angmo, Tsering Dolker, Tsering Yangdol, and Padma Chamchot spent their childhoods watching these stars, but only recently learned to study them through optical equipment. Now in their late 20s, they balance dual roles: by day, they manage family-run homestays, cooking and cleaning for guests; by night, they operate telescopes, trace constellations with laser pointers, and explain celestial phenomena to visitors.

The region’s dry air, high altitude, and lack of light pollution make it a premier location for astronomy. Home to the Indian Astronomical Observatory, run by the Indian Institute of Astrophysics, Hanle offers suitable observing conditions on approximately 260 nights per year. In 2022, it was designated India’s first Dark Sky Reserve, a move intended to protect its pristine skies from artificial light and promote astronomy tourism.

The designation coincided with a surge in visitor numbers, which climbed from roughly 3,000 five years ago to nearly 30,000 in the 2024-25 period. To capitalize on this growth, the Ladakh administration and the institute trained 24 young people from Hanle and surrounding villages in astronomy that same year.

The training program spanned 15 days, covering star identification, telescope operation, and astrophotography. Although the women initially felt nervous about handling delicate equipment, they have since become confident guides. Their evenings typically begin around 9 pm, setting up telescopes to show visitors features such as Saturn’s rings, the Moon’s craters, and Vega, before the village switches off its lights at 11 pm for optimal Milky Way viewing.

For the astro-ambassadors, the work has provided significant financial autonomy. Charging 200 rupees per session, they earn approximately 25,000 rupees ($260) monthly, though income drops during the harsh winter when tourism declines. This earnings stream allows them to save money and purchase personal items without relying on their parents.

“Before taking on this work, we lacked confidence,” the women noted. “Now, if one of us takes even a single day off, the families ask why the telescope was not set up.”

However, the rising popularity of Hanle presents a paradox. While tourism supports local livelihoods, it also brings increased construction, traffic, and artificial light, all of which threaten the darkness that draws visitors. Sonam Jorphail, head of outreach at the Indian Astronomical Observatory, acknowledged that while tourism drives development, growth must be managed carefully to preserve the skies.

Longtime residents have noticed the changes. Dhuntup Chamchot, Padma’s father, recalled a time when the skies were so dark that his community would sleep outdoors under the open night sky. Despite these challenges, the astro-ambassadors have no intention of leaving Hanle. They hope to access advanced training and better equipment to continue their work, transforming a once-unfamiliar skill into a sustainable future among the stars.