Sergio Camello, an 11-year-old second-hand VW Beetle with over 300,000 kilometers on the odometer, pulls up on Clown Fofó Street in the heart of Vallecas. The music stops, silencing the Smiths, as Camello steps out. He is a man of diverse passions: a movie aficionado who has reviewed 156 films, a part-time photographer, an occasional drummer, and an Olympic gold medalist. Perhaps most notably, he is the second-top goalscorer in Europe’s five leading leagues.
Surrounded by graffiti and stickers covering the glass between metal bars, just a single step up from the street, lies the small entrance to Rayo Vallecano’s ground. The door is currently locked, but it will open for the first time this season in just 64 hours. “It’s my home, it’s Vallecas,” Camello says.
The club was forced to abandon their home stadium due to safety concerns. On Saturday at 2pm, the tenants return, having played their recent home matches in Leganés, a location south of Madrid that has been boycotted by fans after the Madrid council declared Estadio de Vallecas unsafe and unfit for purpose.
As he walks through the neighborhood—known for its strong social conscience, community ties, and support for the team—Camello expresses his eagerness to return. His excitement extends beyond just the football; it encompasses the entire experience. “It’s the pre-game, the post-game, the people,” he says, mentioning the bar where fans will be waiting for him afterward, just as they always do.
Thirty thousand fans boycotting Leganés? That is incredible community power. Hope the stadium repairs go smoothly soon.
It feels good that football still has soul. Vallecas is truly special compared to soulless commercial clubs.